Cleaned up the blower housing and replaced the fibreglass with epoxy in the area previously modified for clearance, should last better now. https://img.v8comp.co.nz/Torana/20231203_100035.jpg Removed the resistor wire from the blower motor and added a plug inside the housing. https://img.v8comp.co.n...

Covers now painted in wrinkle black.


Used a razor blade to get the bulk of the paint off the top surface while still soft, then sanded once fully cured. Seems to have come up pretty well.

I'd be tempted to lift the entire rail and injector assembly off the engine and see if you can get enough room to put it in a plastic container (might have to temporarily install some longer hoses) - then you'll be able to see if the injectors are opening or leaking/jammed.

It should only pulse when commanded by the ECU, the light should not be on at any other time.

edit: that's assuming you have the light connected to both terminals on the injector plug, rather than probing one and getting the ground from elsewhere

Detail on the hard lines is a few pages back: https://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=4528&start=170#p123686 No sealant required, there are machined hose barbs welded into the stainless tubing. The manifold gets pretty hot regardless, but with the cold air intake temps drop quickl...

As above the ECU provides the ground side. You can un-plug and run a test light instead to see what's happening.

I have a ~15cfm triple piston belt drive compressor with 70L tank, it keeps up with the blasting but will run almost continuously if you don't give it a break. A few more things bolted down, you can see the slightly improved routing of the heater line at the front now. https://img.v8comp.co.nz/Toran...

Put all the pulleys and belt back on, discovered there was a few thousandths clearance between the water pump pulley and idler bracket. https://img.v8comp.co.nz/Torana/20231113_173555.jpg Probably best to have a little breathing room, machined a small step into the bracket. Also improved the body of...

That Howe bearing is still the style where the outer body moves. Sometimes you can find better options with the radius diaphragm clutch fingers as that seems to be more popular in the US, and run a flat bearing as opposed to the Holden OEM radius bearing and flat clutch. The former fits a little bet...

The T5 retainer doesn't have anything to support a locating pin or alike, like I see on your TKO. Didn't come that way, I just removed the bearing retainer and machined it to suit. There's also a screw-on collar pressed onto it. The original Muncie kit actually came with a replacement bearing retai...