pcmhacking.net

Most of the mechanical gauges are damped to avoid fluctuations. I'm not really bothered but might be interesting to take a look at some stage.

Originally I wanted a decent pressure damper because it was running batch fire with all 8 injectors at once, I'd expect it would be less of an issue with sequential.

I put mechanical's in the engine bay, electrics in the cabin.

For one main reason, I don't like hot fluids in the cabin, I had an oil line rupture spraying hot oil on my leg once ... fortunately it wasn't that hot.

-Enjoy

Hiya,
Fuel dampen has and will always be an issue. If you want your gauge to be a little more stable, use a restriction jet before the gauge.
Fuel rails are a bit tougher. Always use as large a rail as you can. If you can fit dampers, use them. Otherwise, as large as you can and regulate at the end.

Here's some -12 rails, dual pumps, Y adapter with check valves(redundancy thing, one pump at a time), big fuel lines over 12ft each to the rail and then back to the tank, then return after the bypass regulator and still a -8 bypass. Sorry, the pic shows the regulator at the end of the return rail. I moved it to the rear of the truck next to the tank.

Won the race yesterday and also fast time overall, meaning we were faster than the million dollar trucks even though we are a class down

Turned up a couple of brass adapters to allow me to pressure test the stainless heater lines.


The method of joining the tubing turned out to be worth the effort, no leaks first time (yes, I was surprised too)!


But then I decided I couldn't live with the way the hoses crossed at the front and it snowballed from there... started with making a fitting that gives me a tight 90 degree elbow.

The idea was to get away with tapping the water pump in place with some grease to catch the swarf. Would have worked if I hadn't tried it with a half-buggered tap that caused the inlet on the pump to split!

So that meant the water pump had to come off after all. With easier access to the crank angle sensor I gave the bracket for that a minor skim to get the gap just right.


I was about to machine down one of the bosses on the new water pump to fit the idler pulley mounts, then decided maybe I should re-make nicer versions of the brackets. Made some measurements and 3D printed some basic oversize patterns.


Poured some aluminium. It would be overly generous to call these castings but there was just enough material to machine down...


... after far too many hours, into these. They have the spacers built in so you don't need four sets of hands to install them, weigh less, and fit without modifying the water pump.


Also made some new odd-shaped bolts. One leg of each bracket is both an original bolt hole and the mount for the pulley. The previous iterations were double-end studs that needed double-nuts to install, these have the outer hex and an inner 3/8" thread for the pulley retaining bolts.


In place without the pulleys.


And with the pulleys, also made some custom made stepped washers that locate inside the bearings.

Very Impressed.

That's some next level stuff there.

Put all the pulleys and belt back on, discovered there was a few thousandths clearance between the water pump pulley and idler bracket.


Probably best to have a little breathing room, machined a small step into the bracket. Also improved the body of the adjuster turnbuckle so it's slimmer and has more area to get a wrench on it.


Thought I'd be clever and change to a high flow thermostat. It has a bigger body and doesn't fit inside the housing.


We can fix that. You can also see here that the two pieces are permanently joined together with epoxy where the (largely useless) o-ring originally went.


Got a cheap blasting cabinet with glass media, works surprisingly well. The manifold fits in there OK, but I didn't really consider being able to fit my hands as well. Reasonable result in the end though.


With a fresh coat of wrinkle black to hide all the sins.

Looks great! I too looked at getting a blasting cabinet but just get a professional to do my blasting as often it's larger items that won't fit or clean up properly without serious blasting equipment. But still, a small unit would be great to do those small time critical items.

Blasting cabinets are great when they are running well and blockage free. I do brackets and bolts and lots of small items. I hook up a vacuum to reduce the dust and keep things a bit clearer.

My decision at the time was lack of compressor. Only had use of my old boss's bunning special. But I have had a quality 3hp McMillan 60L compressor for 10 years now which will work ok with a cabinet blaster but in my experience they benefit from much bigger compressors than this, which I can't run due to being limited to single phase out on the farm.