L67 Engineered Gem

[NOG181_l67gem]

Start of l67 conversion

Old engine and wheels

With scoop fitted, help keep blower temps down

image.jpg (304.44 KiB) Viewed 6699 times

image.jpg (463.87 KiB) Viewed 6699 times

MOD EDIT: rotated and re-sized pics.

[Holden202T]

Nice right up my ally!

im interested to know what headers you've used on this ? I have a mate about to slot one of these into a Gemini and hes looking at getting some custom made ones for this conversion, I think they are from caste headers or something ?

either way it certainly looks like a tight fit on the brake booster side of the engine bay!!

[Charlescrown]

You are so lucky you live in Vic being allowed to get such a car registered.

[vlad01]

what do you mean Vic? you get done for everything in Vic. plate says qld.

[NOG181_l67gem]

Hey holden202T Ya on the money there bud I just used the castlemain ecotec headers, I saved a little coin by not buying the tri-y piece as iam running twin 2 1/4 system with a x-over dumped at diff, is ya mate using l67 ecotec or early buick cause I have a set of castlemain early holden pipes here from the first engine, could save him few hundred

[NOG181_l67gem]

Oh and charlescrown am currently situated in brissy, am glad it's a who ya know world these days more then a what ya know world, gotta love loop-holes

[Holden202T]

My mate is removing a Buick and installing an L67, so he'll be using the same pipes you have then! So they fit ok ?

[Charlescrown]

Sorry sick with the flue and didn't look to closely at the plate. I see you can also have aftermarket ECU's but the rules say it must still comply with ADR's so I don't know how you do that. We have the IM240 here done by the RMS which they accept but the rules still won't allow after market ECU's. Nice car. Do you have any performance specs you can post?

[NOG181_l67gem]

Haha yes nice, just let ya friend know his up for some fun, even with the auto mine was fun but now with t5 whole new car, regarding fitting the l67 there wasn't to many big issues, the brake booster I just pulled out and drilled new holes about 15-20mm offset so booster almost touching inner guard, then di grinded hole out for booster rod to pedal, ya mate prob has already done that for buick motor but l67 runs that stupid metal water pipe along head and around back of engine, so my booster is on a slight lean, which is where I ran into prob biggest issue of conversion, mine was already registered with buick motor so didn't affect me as much but I had to remove heater box cause air intake of blower hit it, also where the thermostat housing comes around to meet that metal water pipe, the 180 degree hose rests against the firewall a little which pushes on coolant temp sensor there, so I re-positioned the sensor to my radiator, extended wires and plugged where sensor was, on the firewall there is a lip where they spot weld it on the assembly line, I had to trim a tiny piece out so that 180 hose didn't rub on it, obviously so it didn't eventually split it, if ya mate had early buick first then he will have to get another sump to suit Ecotec, or if he trusts his own abilities with a drill and tap, he can drill and tap his block like I did and use buick sump, do that outta the car on an engine stand so when ya putting new gasket on you can put a nice bead of high temp silicone top and bottom with nice clean surfaces to insure no leak, trust me I learnt the hard way lol, with the pipes mate I now remember that I should of done my freakin own, the castle or CAE as it known now ones I had to heavily modify, drivers side ones copped the biggest hammer I had and then still had to make a custom steering knuckle to miss them, passenger side ones almost came down to the ground so they were shortened then to realise they were hitting starter motor and weren't seating manifold and gaskets prop to the head, ggggrrrrrrr memories and after all that had to reposition O2 sensor for the clutch cable, so flow is a little restricted in places, my advice, buy header plates and do a set of block huggers ya selves then flow exhaust from there, didn't have to modify tunnel in anyway apart from when I had a B&M shifter in it, just had to tap little bit of body in for the shifter bracket for cable, I also put battery in boot so I could fit factory air induction, fitting a thermo is tight but possible, I used factory gemini feed/return fuel lines, they seem to feed it enough although I took the intank fuel pump out and replaced 6mm pickup pipe and welded 8mm pipe as a pickup inside of tank and welded 10mm pipe on outside for 3/8 fuel hose to the bosch044, there's prob a couple few little humps he will encounter but a fairly easy conversion, my car didn't leave my place at all during build so is something accomplish able from ya own shed and the whole build wouldn't even owe me 6 grand including buying the car, if anything else ya need or I can help with just hit us up, I'm sure I encountered it somewhere haha good luck with it, really worth the effort in the end

[NOG181_l67gem]

http://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/~/media/Safet ... ations.pdf
That is one of the things the engineer sent me charlescrown, I'll have a look through my emails and try find the exact emails from engineer and what he expected and try put them up, remembering I only got it registered with N/A motor then put l67 in then got friend to do new roadworthy with new engine number on it, wha-laa